Moe's Spring Newsletter
“No winter lasts forever, no spring skips its’ turn” Hal Borland
Dear fellow gardeners,
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Well folks, it has been what seems like, a very long winter - and another of grey dreariness! However, as the chosen quote above tells us, nothing lasts forever, winter is on its way out now and it is with hope that the coming spring will be, at least fairly warm and sunny. As usual, at this time of year my thoughts are always about clearing away the dead growth in the borders and getting the greenhouse in a good state in readiness for sowing seeds. Don’t forget to clear and clean yours. There is nothing as satisfying as cleaning and tidying the greenhouse in the spring. As you do, if you’re like me, you will probably be wishing you had started a tad earlier. Winter may have felt long and tedious, but spring is a season that most certainly does not feel remotely long. There seems so much to do and so little time to do it in! Everything is fresh and new, colours are brighter and more beautiful as nature picks up the pace. Before we think about practicalities we can think about expanding the mind by getting out into the fresh air (as fresh as it can be these days!) to explore new places or meet others we have not seen during our weather enforced ‘hibernations’ We have some interesting speakers at our society meetings this year. Richard Hodson starts our spring programme off with a talk about ‘Small summer flowering clematis’ on March 18th There will be a table top competition too entitled ‘A hand tied posy of spring leaves’. Richard will be bringing a good number of plants with him so I am sure there will be plenty to choose from if you would like to purchase one. There is space in the average garden for many different types of clematis. There are the early flowering species which include Clematis alpina, C. macropetala and C. montana, the early summer flowering types (which include Clematis patens and C. lanuginosa types) and the late season flowerers, that include Clematis jackmanii, C. viticella, C. triternata and C. tangutica. All require slightly different (but not complicated) pruning regimes. I am sure Richard will have much to say about the summer flowering clematis and I have written about the late summer flowering ones in a previous newsletter so I will just mention the early spring flowering ones here.
The alpinas are the dainty bunch of the early flowering clematis genus. Most have nodding, downward facing flowers that are tolerant of all aspects and are very hardy. They will grow to 5m after three or so years and will look lovely cascading down a small fence or trellis. Clematis alpina ‘Frances Rivis’ is one of the best known but the much darker purple Clematis alpina ‘Helsingborg’ AGM is a very good grower. Clematis alpina ‘Ruby’ and Clematis alpina ‘Constance’ look well, being pink forms and the white Clematis alpina ‘White Columbine’ AGM is unusual with its very free flowering, nodding, and pointed flowers. The macropetala clematis flower a little later than the alpinas. These have a semi double appearance. One of the best in this range is Clematis macropetala ‘Blue Bird’. It has soft purple blue double flowers that hang down slightly on the plant. If you prefer something a little deeper in colour then Clematis macropetala ‘Maidwell Hall’ (AGM) and ‘Blue Lagoon’ are both deep blue. The variety Clematis macropetala ‘Markham’s Pink’ (AGM) is a good strong colour and Clematis macropetala ‘Ballet Skirt’ is pale pink. Both the alpina and macropetala types belong to pruning Group 1. Both flower on last years’ wood. Therefore, plants will need to be pruned immediately after flowering so that they can put on new flowering stems for the following year. Simple!
Clematis Alpina "Francis Rivis"
Clematis Macropeta "Blue Bird"
The montana clematis are a different kettle of fish! They are very vigorous, reliably hardy and late spring flowering. They are open in appearance and some are even scented! This clematis will provide quick cover but a short flowering season. They are good for disguising old buildings, sheds, and outbuildings and for combining with other climbers up trees and large shrubs. Giving them plenty of room is the key to a lasting focal point in the garden. Little care is needed once the plant has been established but they still fall into pruning group 1.There may be the need to tie in stray stems or the cut some off if they are getting untidy (always immediately after flowering) This will improve flowering too because new stems will ensue. Good varieties include the pink Clematis montana ‘Elizabeth’ AGM and Clematis montana ‘Freda’ AGM but there are many others worth growing. You need to see the flowers when you buy them. White – flowered varieties can be disappointing as there are many poor plants on the market. Clematis montana ‘Alexander’ is reliable but you will have to wait a few years for the flowers. Best to keep to the named pink ones.
There are only two golden rules when growing clematis:
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Plant DEEP trying not to disturb the root system
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Water copiously and do not let clematis dry out.
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Clematis Montana "Rubens"
Clematis Montana "Elizabeth"
On April 15th, James Ellson will be talking about The (Apple) trees and bees. James is a retired policeman who is passionate about growing fruit trees and keeping bees. I grow several varieties of apple in the garden and of course we are all too aware of the importance of bees to our planet. Bees pollinate 80% of all flowering plants so the apples definitely need them! There are more than 240 bee species in the UK alone ranging from the solitary bee to the Bumble bee or the Honey bee. It will be fascinating to find out what James has to say about them. Also in April we have our first visit of the year to the Tulip Visiting Day at Brighter Blooms on April 14th. Book your place now if you want to see some fantastic tulips! Our last meeting of spring will bring Andy Gasgill to our door on May 20th to talk about Bonsai. I know absolutely nothing about growing bonsai other than I like the forms that can be created with time and patience very much! I am greatly looking forward to listening to Andy and the methods he uses to create such beautiful specimens. I am sure he will be enlightening us all about the simple methods we can use to start to grow Bonsai if we were interested to do so. Andy creates his own pots and it is hoped that he will be bringing some of these along with him for sale. He is opening his garden in Fulwood for the NGS for the first time this year. What a treat to look forward to!
In May we have our annual spring plant fair in Chorley Town Centre (May 10th) Why not come along and pick up some bargains! We need all the help we can get buying plants for reasonable prices because they are so expensive in the garden centres these days. If you have spare plants at home, why not donate them to the sale?
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Having made a note in our diaries of the goodies to come at our meetings we can get on with the practical gardening that will lift our spirits and put us in a positive frame of mind. Nets need to be removed from ponds if you have them in the garden and any dead leaves blown in over the winter will also need clearing out. After clearing the green house, beds and borders will need cutting back, splitting and feeding up. I have been removing quite a few plants in the borders that I do not want any more. Some are just not earning their keep and so will have to go. Gone are the tall heleniums at the back of one border. Even though I gave them the ‘Chelsea chop’ last year they still grew far too tall for my liking. Clumps of Helianthus’ Lemon Queen’ will have to be split too. They flop around if the root ball gets too wide and there is no controlling them. I like this plant for its good late summer colour but it can be a bit of a thug. Other thugs needing con trolling include phlox. Most phlox will grow anywhere but they can take over if you let them. I grow several. Phlox paniculata ‘Bright Eyes’ is nice but needs dividing every couple of years and spring is the best time to do it.
Phlox Paniculata "Bright Eyes"
Phlox "Fasselbollo"
Phlox paniculata ‘Fasselbollo’ has beautiful flowers as can be seen in the image. Both grow to approx. 1m high. Phlox paniculata ‘David’ AGM is white, a repeat flowerer if deadheaded and reaches 1.5m. It is well behaved and easy to split. Dividing border perennials is important if you want plants to give their best. Roots of plants become congested and splitting them will yield lots of new growth round the outside of an old clump. These pieces when planted, will establish quickly once the weather warms up. All other perennials that flower in late summer or autumn, are best divided in spring when they are dormant. Whilst you are digging up the perennials, don’t forget to remove weeds particularly perennial weeds such as couch grass and ground elder. Roses will need attention now so finish pruning before new growth starts. I have just completed cutting back the Vitis coignetiae (all branches to the main stem) and because the Lonicera ‘Graham Thomas’ was overgrown, I have cut this back hard too. If you want to create a new hedge you can plant all types except broad leaved evergreens now. Deciduous shrubs and trees can also be planted at this time of year. Any shrubs damaged during the winter can be tidied, but those such as Hypericum inodorum need to be hard pruned. They put on a lot of growth in a season. I have left the Buddleia davidii ‘Lochinch’ in my garden until later in the season. I don’t want a hard frost to damage the new foliage that will ensue if I cut it back early. This has happened in the last two years and it is most upsetting. The Hakonechloa grasses that have outgrown their pots have been divided and repotted, not without a great deal of effort I might add because the roots were very congested! Another yearly dollop of manure on top of each pot will ensure they grow well.
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Halonechloa macra ‘Areola’
Vitis coignetiae
Hydrangeas will need pruning, snowdrops will need splitting in the green if you want to increase stock, begonias will need starting off in trays, nets need to be erected to protect blueberries from birds (don’t leave this until the last minute) and the grass will need its first cut. Fence and trellis maintenance is on the cards now as is replacing any broken glass/ perspex in the greenhouse. Removal of all fleece or bubble wrap on tender shrubs and perennials in the garden will enable them to acclimatise to spring temperatures. I am sure we can all think of many more tasks we need to undertake in our gardens before we even get to the seed sowing I mentioned at the beginning of this newsletter. Spring is here and there is no time to waste!
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Happy gardening
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Moe